The numbers quilters look up over and over — cutting allowances, setting triangles, quilt sizes, yardage — worked out properly and computed by the same engine that runs the studio.
Baby to king, with everything the size decides for you: how big to cut the batting, how much backing to buy, how many strips of binding, and how many blocks it takes to get there.
The single most-used unit in patchwork, and the one people most often cut wrong. Here is what to cut for any finished size, by whichever method you use.
The unit behind Ohio Star, hourglass blocks and every quilt edge that needs to stay straight. Cut sizes, the formula, and why the allowance is bigger than an HST.
One large square and four small ones make four geese with no waste and no bias on the outside edge. Here are the sizes, for every unit you are likely to need.
Set your blocks on point and you need two kinds of triangle to fill the edges — cut the wrong way round and your quilt edges will stretch. Here are both, for every block size.
The honest version of the calculation — including the part most fabric calculators skip, which is that pieces are cut from strips, not from area.
Pixel quilts are easy to generate and hard to make well. Here is what actually decides whether the finished quilt looks like the photograph.
The layout is how the pieces cover the quilt. Change it and the same fabrics make a completely different quilt — often with less piecing, not more.
Every chart on this site is generated by the FourPatch design engine at build time, not typed into a table by hand. The half-square triangle chart uses the same ⅞″ allowance the studio applies when it writes your cutting list; the setting triangle chart uses the same √2 arithmetic; the yardage figures come from the same strip-packing routine. If the engine is right, the charts are right, and if it ever changes, they change with it.